Tailoring Trade Honor

Vocational Activities

Requirements

  1. Identify the following fabrics:
    • Wool
    • Microfiber
    • Cotton
    • Linen
    • Silk
    • Linen cambric
    • Egyptian cotton
    • Gabardine
    • Tricoline (poplin)

    Answer: 1) Wool: a fiber of animal origin (sheep's fleece). Warm, soft, a thermal insulator, slightly elastic and with a matte appearance; it burns smelling of burnt hair/horn and forms a brittle residue. 2) Microfiber: a synthetic fiber (polyester and/or polyamide) of extremely fine filaments. Light, soft, quick-drying, durable and with good drape; it is technological and does not wrinkle easily. 3) Cotton: a fiber of plant origin (from the cotton plant). Soft, comfortable, absorbent, breathable and easy to dye, but wrinkles easily. 4) Linen: a plant fiber (from the flax stalk). Cool, durable, very absorbent and with a dry touch; it has a slightly irregular natural appearance and wrinkles a lot. 5) Silk: a fiber of animal origin (silkworm cocoon). Noble, light, soft, with a natural sheen and excellent drape; it is delicate and thermoregulating. 6) Linen cambric: a light and fine fabric made from linen fiber, with a tight weave and smooth surface. Cool and elegant, used in shirts, handkerchiefs and light clothing. 7) Egyptian cotton: extra-long staple cotton, considered one of the finest and noblest. It results in a soft, durable, long-lasting fabric with a soft sheen, widely used in fine shirting and luxury bed linen. 8) Gabardine: a technical fabric with a firm and compact diagonal (twill) weave, usually of wool, cotton or blends. Durable, long-lasting and with good drape, it is traditional in suits, trousers and trench coats. 9) Tricoline: a cotton (or cotton-polyester blend) fabric with fine threads and a tight weave. Light, smooth, soft and easy to sew, it is widely used in shirts and dresses. — Wool comes from sheep, retaining heat through crimped fibers. Microfiber is ultra-fine polyester (< 0.1 denier). Egyptian cotton has long fibers (more softness/durability). Cambric has a tight weave, ideal for fine clothing. Gabardine has a diagonal weave — used in classic suits. Tricoline is 100% fine cotton, traditional for Brazilian dress shirts.

  2. How are the following items used:
    • Interfacing
    • Basting stitches
    • Lining fabric
    • Felt

    Answer: Interfacing: provides stiffness (collar/cuff). Basting stitches: temporary stitches for fitting. Lining fabric: covers the inside of the garment (lining). Felt: decorative appliqué or hat base. — Fusible interfacing (Vlieseline) is used in a shirt collar for stiffness without bulk. Basting stitches are wide removable stitches taken out after confirming the fit. Satin/acetate lining smoothly covers the inside of the garment. 100% wool felt has the unique property of not fraying — cut it without finishing the edges. Each item is specific to a clear function.

  3. Explain the points that should be observed so that a garment fits well and shows the touch of a tailor.

    Answer: Natural drape, aligned shoulders, sleeves at the wrist, straight seams and a clean internal finish. — The fit depends on precise measurements (chest, waist, hip, sleeve, shoulder). Shoulders that droop or pinch reveal an amateur tailor. Internal seams reinforced with bias tape or overlock are a professional standard. Custom-made garments (R$1500-5000 for a suit jacket) allow fine adjustments that ready-to-wear does not offer. This is the touch of the classic tailor.

  4. Know how to use ironing tools according to the garment and the fabric being worked on.

    Answer: Steam iron with fabric setting: linen/cotton (high), wool (medium with cloth), silk/synthetic (low). Use steam for wrinkles, press without dragging. — Temperature scale on irons: single dot = synthetic/silk (110°C), 2 dots = wool/polyester (150°C), 3 dots = cotton/linen (200°C). A damp cloth between the iron and wool prevents shine. Steam loosens wrinkled fibers. An ironing board with padding absorbs heat properly. Professional irons (Singer/Black & Decker) last 15-20 years with maintenance.

  5. Know how to make buttonholes.

    Answer: Mark, cut a slit (button + 2mm), make blanket stitch around it. Use durable thread. — A horizontal buttonhole is most used in shirts (holds better). Vertical in pajamas (the button comes out easily). Ideal size: button diameter + 2mm to slide through. The blanket stitch (hand-worked buttonhole) has a knot at each stitch preventing fraying. Singer 4423 machines make an automatic buttonhole in 30s. Polyester thread is more durable than cotton for this.

  6. Make one pocket without a flap and another with a flap.

    Answer: Without flap: cut a rectangle + 1cm excess, fold, sew 3 sides to the garment. With flap: same + cut a flap (10x4cm), join with an internal seam and attach it to the garment on top. — A patch pocket (without flap) is simple and used in shirts. A pocket with a flap is typical of a suit jacket/blazer (more elegant). Lining the inside with a thin fabric (light interfacing) gives structure. A French seam at the edges prevents fraying. A 1cm excess allows turning the edges inward before sewing for a professional finish without visible loose threads.

  7. Demonstrate your skills as a tailor by measuring, cutting and making a men's garment (blazer or suit jacket and dress trousers) or women's garment (blazer and skirt or dress) that has a good fit.

    Answer: Measure the client (chest/waist/hip/sleeve/shoulder). Cut the fabric using a pattern. Sew the pieces, do the internal and external finishing. Check the fit. Present the finished garment. — Take 12 basic measurements: chest, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve, length, crotch, etc. A paper pattern marks the exact cut. Classic tailoring work takes 30-50h per suit jacket. Fabrics: pure wool for winter, linen/silk for summer. The client has 2-3 fittings for adjustments. The internal finish (lining, sealed seams) is what differentiates the tailor from the amateur.